West Texas & The Davis Mountains
July 6th, 2011I recently spent 8 days hiking, shooting and exploring in and around the remote Davis Mountains region. Davis Mountains State Park was the perfect base of operations for destinations far and near in Central-West Texas. The weather was typical for summer in the high Chihuahuan Desert, with moderately hot days and cool nights.
Encompassing some of the most scenic areas in Texas, the The Davis Mountains boasts some of the most amazing geology, as well. The Davis range formed around 35 million years ago, as part of the Trans-Pecos volcanic field. The Davis range is the most extensive mountain range in Texas and forms a “sky island” in the desert. As the elevation rises above the surrounding lowlands, it creates a unique biologically diverse ecosystem and micro-climate.
Day 1
I timed my 9.5 hour drive across Texas so I would arrive in the Davis range just in time to catch the late afternoon light, as I drove in. Traveling the same trail that early pioneers took (old San Antonio-El Paso Road), I was treated to spectacular views of sheer rock walls and eroded peaks.
Cliffs rise above the grasslands on Highway 17
Wild Rose Pass - An original pioneers route discovered in the 1840’s and named for the abundance of endemic Demaree roses. Travelers still honor the pioneers to this day by placing red silk roses near the centennial marker.
After a 30 mile drive through winding roads and mountain passes, I arrived in the modest town of Fort Davis. The town’s history dates back to 1850, when it was originally set-up as a stage stop along the San Antonio-El Paso Road. The town was decked out in their finest red, white and blue for the upcoming Fourth of July weekend.
Fort Davis State Bank along State Street
The 1910 Jeff Davis County Courthouse
After 10+ hours of driving, I finally arriving at the campsite. I secured my tent, settled in for the evening and admired the view from my camp.
Day 2
Just after sunrise, I headed to historic Fort Davis (the fort, not the town). Fort Davis was established in 1854 as a frontier military post along the San Antonio-El Paso Road. The fort protected the main mail and commerce route from Indian attacks. It proved invaluable in reducing Indian raids during the 1850’s California gold rush, as pioneers headed West in hopes of striking it rich. Today the fort is a nationally protected landmark that attracts visitors as one of the best remaining examples of Western frontier forts in the US.
Bird’s eye view of the restored officer’s quarters
Building ruins
Partially restored 2-story officer’s quarters
The self-guided tour of the fort is quite interesting with interpretive exhibits, hiking trails and many restored buildings with period furnishing that you can go inside. The restored 1876 post hospital building was of particular interest. Visible still are hand carved names and drawings made by quarantined patients. Medicine at the fort was quite advanced for the time and only the best trained physicians in the US were commissioned as post surgeons.
After the fort, I headed back to camp for lunch and then an afternoon hike. What better place to start than the trail head directly in front of my camp? After 30 minutes of steep switchbacks, the trail opens up to spectacular views of Limpia Canyon.
Cloud shadows dance across Limpia Canyon
A yucca stands guard over the canyon
Highway 118 winds through Limpia Canyon
Everything in the desert is trying to stick you, like this Cholla catus.
The trail narrowed significantly along the north rim and from then on was barely 14 inches wide. After a spine-tingling trek to the summit, I was treated to 360 degree views of the Davis Mountains.
Me and my little hiking sidekicks take a moment to bask in our reward. I exposed the shot for the background and use a hotshoe mounted flash for fill.
Day 3
After breakfast on the third day, I decided to meet some of the locals. There is an amazing variety of wildlife in the Chihuahuan Desert. I’m no avian expert, so please correct me if I’ve misidentified any of these:
House Finch - 400 mm f/5.6 shot with diffused fill flash stepped down 1/2 stop
Eastern Fence Lizard - 70-200 mm f/5.6
??
The most interesting of all the critters I saw was right nest to my tent. There was a pair of black chinned hummingbirds building a nest literally 3 feet from my tent. I had wondered what all the buzz was about (pun intended), as they kept frequenting one particular juniper tree. They became accustomed to my presence and let me get close enough to photo them with a short range lens at about 3 feet. They were very curious and would hover right in front of my face, at times. These were shot on tripod with 70-200 mm with diffused fill flash.
Hummingbird Nest
Black chinned Hummingbird
After making nice with the neighbors, I was off to see the town of Marfa, Texas. Marfa is not your typical West Texas town, as it houses an odd mix of cowboys, mystery lights, modern art and 50’s retro charm. I won’t elaborate on that further. You’ll just have to go there.
Remnants of Fort D.A. Russell. Originally established in 1911 as Camp Albert, then changed to Camp Marfa, it operated as an Army base in Marfa until 1945.
Street Scene in Marfa
Presidio County Courthouse, Marfa
Old Palace Theater in Marfa
Street Scene in Marfa
Former Marfa Jailhouse
Seemingly endless expanses of rolling grasslands cascade away toward the mountains just outside of Marfa. A 200 mm lens compresses the scene to give it added depth.
Day 4
After a morning hike, I wanted to trek Northwest to the even more remote town of Valentine on US Highway 90. It’s the kind of town that if you blinked or sneezed while you were driving, you would miss it.
Valentine updates their own census population to save on cost
Valentine was a run down ghost town with no obviously open businesses
So what? You’re probably asking yourself, what’s so special about Valentine, besides the town’s name? Well it’s home to a modern art project called “Prada Marfa”. It’s an architectural art piece made from adobe bricks, plaster, paint, among other materials and mad to look like a Prada store. The interior features authentic handbags and shoes picked and provided by Miuccia Prada, herself. Weird, huh? It’s in the middle of nowhere!
Prada Marfa, Near Valentine, Texas
After my dose of modern pop-art, it was back to the State Park and up to Skyline Drive to catch last light.
In Texas, when we say “Scenic”, we mean it.
Last light of the day fills Limpia Canyon and illuminates the evening haze across the Davis peaks
A tight crop with a 200 mm lens to show the layered ridge detail.
Day 5
On the forth morning, I left camp to before sunrise to hike to a spot I had pre-scouted the evening prior. I was looking for a clear horizon and first light to illuminate the early morning shots I wanted. I hiked a couple of miles on the “old fort” trail in the State Park, as I ascended to Skyline ridge just as the first gleams of light began to bounce off the atmosphere. I arrived just in time for the light I wanted to illuminate the East-facing rocks.
Sleeping Lion Mountain behind Fort Davis - view from Skyline Drive
The iconic CCC structure on Skyline Ridge in Davis Mountains State Park
Limpia Canyon at First Light
As the sun got high enough to begin creeping into the valley, I shuffled down to my next subject.
Columns of Porphyritic Rhyolite (ancient volcanic columns) below Skyline Ridge
Can you see the faces?
In the mid-afternoon, I wanted to chase down some of these so-called “dust devils” that are prolific in the region. They are wind vortices ranging in size and intensity that swirl across the desert during the warmest part of the day. So I went in search of a good shot of one. Conditions were favorable and I caught up to some large ones including this one that was at least 40-50 feet wide at the base. It crossed the road just in front of me and I grabbed a good shot of it as it danced off into the desert. I saw one that was over 100 feet tall, but wasn’t able to shoot it before it dissipated.
Moderately large dust devil just outside of Fort Davis
In the late afternoon, I drove the Davis Mountains scenic drive route that winds 70+ miles through the heart of the range. This is one of the most scenic drives in the Southwest US.
Scenic Views along Highway 118
Scenic Views along Highway 118
Scenic Views along Highway 118
Mount Locke & Mount Fowlkes - The University of Texas McDonald Observatory
Hobby-Eberly Telescope - The University of Texas McDonald Observatory
Sawtooth Mountain
Day 6
On day 5, I slept in and had a lazy morning, followed by a short hike though some lowland trails and creek beds in the park. Then in the afternoon, I drove out to the Chihuahuan Desert Nature Center to Hike their trails.
A spring-fed pool in Modesta Canyon
Century Plant (agave)
Agave Abstract
Beaked yuccas
Then I detoured South to visit Alpine, Texas - the closest town (25 miles away) that has camping supplies.
Campus of Sul Ross State University
View of the town from the University Campus
Mountains near Alpine
I surveyed some of the recent fire damage in the Mountains. Thousands of acres of the Davis Mountains burned in Wildfires in early 2011.
Wildfire damage in Davis Mountains State Park
Wildfire damage in Davis Mountains State Park
A lone survivor shows color from amongst the charred remains
Day 7
I spent the morning and afternoon hiking on the more rugged Limpia Canyon Primitive Area. In the late afternoon hours, I noticed some scattered thunderstorms developing out in the desert lowlands. So it was time to set for shooting some evening showers - which can make for some of the most interesting skies, if the light cooperates. So I made it to a good vantage spot, set up my tripod and waited for the storms to come across the canyon.
Rain and mist traverse the State Park and Blue Mountain in the distance
Rain and bursts of sunlight wash over Limpia Canyon
Rain and bursts of sunlight wash over Limpia Canyon
Then I ended the evening with a “Bang!” Fort Davis had a modest fireworks show out over the mountains outside of town. I’m pretty sure everyone from the entire county was there, as a 30 minute traffic jam ensued following the display. Mind you, this was in the desert on a country road in the middle of nowhere.
Day 8
With reports of possible cloud cover and moisture in the air for the morning, I left camp well before daylight. I got to my favorite vantage point and set up shop hoping for some interesting skies on my last morning in the Davis Mountains. As the first bit of soft dawn light reflected off the atmosphere, I could see the clouds. I knew the alpenglow would be spectacular. I got some of my favorite shots from the whole trip finally getting the combination of light and weather I had hoped for all week.
Pre-dawn aplenglow over Blue Mountain
Limpia Canyon just before sunrise
Blue Mountain just after sunrise
CCC Indian Lodge
